The Problem

What we would normally expect to achieve in one visit

Aggression to other dogs at a distance

Your dog starts pulling, barking and being aggressive to other dogs at a distance. You can't walk down the street without your dog exploding at another dog on the other side of the street.

In most cases, we achieve a major reduction of your dog's reaction and increase your control. We do not guarantee zero reaction to other dogs (although we do often achieve this). We show you how to get out of difficult situations and give you advice on how to minimise the problem. With some breeds and temperaments, this kind of problem can sometimes be so severe that there is only a small improvement in one session. Occasionally, aggression problems can require long-term attendance at special classes to make a real difference.

Aggression to passer's-by

Your dog pulls strongly towards passer's-by or lunges at them aggressively.

We can nearly always stop this.

Aggression to other dogs only close up

Your dog doesn't explode or throw itself around with dogs at a distance, it tries to attack them only when it gets close enough

This is much more tricky. We don't guarantee to solve this in one session and this kind of thing usually requires you to practise certain things we show you long-term. Commonly, we demonstrate ways you can reliably interrupt the process before attack occurs and we give you practical help on avoiding the problem.

Running off to other dogs

You hardly dare let your dog off lead because as soon as it sees another dog it runs off and ignores you (no aggression is involved)

We show you how to stop this happening and we actually do it. By the end of the session, in most cases, your dog will be voluntarily hesitating and/or responding to recall where it would have just continued running off and ignoring you.

Chasing livestock, geese, cyclists, joggers etc

Your dog lunges at or chases moving objects, animals or people

Same as for "running off to other dogs"

Pulling on lead

Your dog spends most of its time pulling your arm off and ignoring you

Your dog will be walking voluntarily at your side with a slack lead. You will be coached in the technique for getting your dog to carry on doing this permanently. If your dog also tends to lunge at passer's by or other dogs etc. then this may complicate the situation and you should see the entries for "Aggression to other dogs..etc". We do not just fit a face collar, take your money and leave.

Hyperactive in the home / jumping up / barking

Your dog never relaxes; the batteries never run down. It jumps up visitors, pesters you all the time, rushes around perhaps it barks all the time at things.

We will determine the cause of this and show you some real, practical calming exercises and methods on the spot to stop this. We will also give you a program of things to do (and not to do) hich will keep the dog calm in future.

Barking / howling / vandalism / toilet in the home when you leave your dog alone

When you go out, your dog barks or howls or chews and wrecks things

We will determine the cause of the behaviour and give you a program of things to practise and do (and not to do) to stop the dog doing this. It is almost never possible to stop this behaviour on the spot during the visit. In most cases, if you do what we advise, the problem will stop within a few days. In some severe cases, it can take a few weeks.

Aggression to visitors

Your dog barks all the time or threatens or actually bites visitors

We will determine the exact nature of the aggression (there are several common variations). Depending upon why your dog is being aggressive, we may demonstrate things you can do immediately to stop it or we may give you longer-term advice with real, practical things you can do to reduce the problem and eliminate your worry.